Stones of Inca Empire to Crown of the Andes, Exploring Artistic Identity in Cusco and Quito
There are many highlights of my Peru and Ecuador trip this summer, the Alpacas roaming on the ancient ruins of Manchu Picchu, the ceremonial feast of Pachamanca at an Ollantaytambo organic farm in the Sacred Valley, the festive parade with marching band and fireworks celebrating Fiestas Patrias at the town center of Aguas Calientes, the elite cyclers training on the treacherous terrain over 12,000 ft altitude on the Stratovolcano Pichincha, or the tasting of countless variety of Ecuador chocolate at the experience houses of Yumbos and Pacarri in Quito’s old town. Amongst all, Cusco in Peru and Quito in Ecuador stand out artistically as two historic Andean capitals immersed in thousands of years of history. From the flutter of prayer flags in Cusco’s San Blas and the quiet passing of the monks on the cobblestoned streets between the decorative covenants, to the reverent silence inside Quito’s iconic opulent golden church La Compañía, art, embodying indigenous roots and colonial influences, is woven into daily life and layers of cultural identity.
Traveling through Cusco and Quito offers an immersion into the artistic souls of the Andean region. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites like living museums with shared historic foundations showcasing Andea Catholicism combining pre-Columbian indigenous traditions and Spanish Colonial influences. Prolific art by the Cusco School possesses a unique artistic style that fuses the European artistic techniques, such as oil painting, with the indigenous Andean styles and subjects, focuses on teaching catholic faith to the local population. A famous painting of the Last Supper at the Cusco Cathedral, created in 1753 by Marcos Zapata, depicts a roasted guinea pig (a local delicacy) on the table instead of the traditional European Paschal lamb or a platter.
Similarly, Syncretism is the soul of the Quito School of Art, assimilating Spanish, Italian, Moorish, Flemish and indigenous art with inherent cultural references such as Andean flora, fauna and cosmological symbols, showcasing cathedral interior covered with intricate gold leafing and colorful cedarwood carving using native pigments, and vivid polychrome saint sculptures with real hair, glass eyes and resin tears.
Stones tell stories. Cusco, the culture capital of the Inca Empire, has a distinctive Andea Baroque style in its architecture showcasing in numerous churches adorned in elaborate and rich decoration intervened with indigenous influence. I spent hours visiting artwork and the bell tower at the Church and Covenant of Santo Domingo which was built on the ruins of Inca Temple Qorikancha with distinctive mix of Inca stonework and colonial architecture style. In the old town of Quito, the Crown of Andes, Baroque genius permeates gilded Jesuit churches showcasing exuberant ornamentation and fusion of styles mixing in indigenous symbols. It was awe-inspiring to walk through lavishly carved facade of volcanic stones and gaze up at the dome of La Compañía Church, marveling at its combination of Christian and Islamic artistic elements, particularly visible in the geometric designs and intricate patterns.
Outside the grandeur of the magnificent historic architecture, streets, neighborhoods and town squares are full of living traditions infused with community art and indigenous crafts. Textiles using Quechua weaving features like pallay, weaving in messages and stories depicting natural subjects such as lakes, flowers, birds, llamas, and heroic figures like Tupac Amaru in vibrant colors and intricate geometric designs, reflecting Andean cosmology and beliefs representing a living narrative of Andean cultural identity. Cusco’s ceramics featuring Inca motifs, local flora and fauna, deities and sacred animals like
condors and pumas, made for both everyday and ceremonial uses. Quito boasts several vibrant artisan hubs such as San Antonio de Ibarra that is particularly well-known for its exceptional wood artisans carving distinctive saint figures featuring shiny paint that appears ceramic looking.
Both Cusco and Quito have a contemporary edge in its street art, demonstrating identity, history and resilience. Cusco’s San Blas artisan neighborhood blends ancient Inca heritage with vibrant Bohemian energy and its muralism is a newer addition; Murals are framed by Colonial styled blue-trimmed houses, showcasing Andean motifs, Quechua identity, Incan cosmology and contemporary local themes. Quito’s street art scene exemplifies in its La Floresta neighborhood where colorful murals are everywhere, exploring Ecuadorian identity reflecting both local heritage and global influences.
From stones of Inca Empire to the crown of Andes, Cusco and Quito are two South American cultural capitals with distinctive artistic identities uniquely blending indigenous traditions with colonial influences. They are true pleasures to visit and explore.